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February 21, 2017

You can send large email attachments with this Apple built-in tool

If you've ever tried to send a large attachment with an email and found that your mail server rejected the message, or that it got lost along the way, then you'll need to get to know Mail Drop.

What is Mail Drop?

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Mail Drop is Apple's free-to-use solution that lets you share large files from an iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, or Mac. To send email the feature only works with Apple's own Mail app on those platforms, but you can receive the email from any platform.

Apple introduced Mail Drop in OS X Yosemite on the Mac and in iOS 9.2 for iOS devices, and it is supported in all current editions of the operating system (macOS Sierra and later as well as iOS 10 and later).

The system is designed to help users get past the file size limits many email service providers impose on email attachments. As a result, emails with an attachment bigger than the set limits bounce back, thus fail to send.

Mail Drop automatically detects the attachment (up to 5GB) and uploads it to Apple's iCloud service, enabling you to feature it in the email without sending the data via your service provider.

When the other party receives your email, they find a link that lets them download it from iCloud. The download will have taken place automatically. There are a few restrictions, but we'll go into those later on.

Why you need Mail Drop

Mail Drop is really handy for sharing large files. Even better, using it is almost seamless, and you need not worry which platform, application, or email application the person you are trying to send an attachment to is using. Nor do you need to go through the hassle of uploading the file to third party file exchange services, or convincing people to use online storage services they may not trust.

Some technical experts think sending attachments via Mail Drop is even more secure in transit than conventional email. Nothing is ever completely secure, but while the file may move through numerous servers in transit between you and your destination with email, with Mail Drop the majority of the journey takes place on the way to and from Apple's relatively secure iCloud. Though this still leaves plenty of wriggle room for hackers, so it makes sense to encrypt files you send.

You can use Mail Drop to get round silly bandwidth restrictions, including Internet Service Providers file size maximums, corporate IT policies, or any other file size restriction that may make conventional email impossible.

Mail Drop limitations

There are some limitations. Attachments must be no larger than 5GB and will only be stored and made available on iCloud for 30-days before they are removed. The files do not count against your own iCloud storage limit.

You cannot send large folders unless they are compressed. To send a folder you must Control-Click on the folder in Finder and choose ‘Compress [Folder Name] in the contextual menu that appears. You can then send this item as a single large file.

Apple will keep a maximum of 1TB of Mail Drop attachments, if you try to send more after that the process will fail. However, attachments will expire after 30-days so you'll be able to use the feature again once it does. You cannot currently control which files are left available using Mail Drop, or edit those you have sent – they will be kept for 30-days. The time taken to upload or to download a Mail Drop file will vary depending on the broadband connection you are using, of course.

How long does Apple store Mail Drop files?

Apple will only store a Mail Drop file you send for up to 30-days, after which it will automatically be deleted. If you receive a Mail Drop attachment then you should download it soon after receipt in order to ensure it isn't deleted before you get to it. This also means that if you think you may need a file later on, then you should create a separate backup of it outside of Mail Drop/iCloud. It is not possible to change the 30-day expiry limit, nor is it possible to delete items before the 30-day storage period completes.

How to Use Mail Drop on a Mac

Apple has designed Mail Drop to be super-easy to use – you shouldn't really need to think about it, though you will need to check you have it enabled on your email account. Here is a complete guide on how to use Mail Drop on a Mac.

To check Mail Drop is enabled

• Open Mail>Preferences.
• Tap Accounts. You should see a list of all the accounts you currently have enabled on your Mac.
• Select the account you wish to use and tap ‘Account Information'.
• You should see the tick box to enable that account, the account status and other information about that email identity. At the bottom (directly beneath ‘Download Attachments') you should see a checkbox for 'Send large attachments with Mail Drop'.
• Tick the checkbox to switch this feature on.
• You can enable Mail Drop for each account if you use lots of accounts.
• Click Done when you've finished. Your Mac should automatically use Mail Drop when you try to send an attachment that's larger than your ISP supports.

To use Mail Drop

• Create a new email message
• While writing a new message use the Attach button at the top of the window and select the files you want to attach. You can also drag-&-drop items you wish to send.
• If your files are too large to send you'll be asked if you want to use Mail Drop. When you indicate you want to use the feature the files will be uploaded to iCloud.
• Once the upload completes the attached files will appear above the email message text.
• To remove an attachment before sending it just click the remove icon (across) you can see by the file name.
• Once the files are uploaded to iCloud, tap Send and the message will be on its way.
• Recipients will either be provided with a download link with which to access the file, or they will receive it as an attachment in the ordinary way, though this depends on which platform, ISP, or email application they use.
• Recipients will be told how large the file they must download is. All files expire after 30-days.

How to Use Mail Drop on an iOS device

Mail Drop also works on iPhones, iPads, and the iPod touch. Usage is relatively similar to the manner in which you use it on the Mac, it should trigger automatically when you try to send an email containing a large attachment. Here's what you need to know:

• Open Mail and create a new email message, or select the item you wish to send, select it, and mail it using the Share button.
• If you want to select something from within an email you should tap and release inside the body of the email message until the contextual Select dialog appears.
• When it does you must scroll through toward the right using the arrow keys that appear until you reach the ‘Add Attachment' option.
• Now you can navigate to the item you wish to send on your device. Tap to select it.
• This item will now become an attachment within your email.
• Finish your email and write the recipient(s) address(es) and hit Send.
• A dialog will appear warning you that the message you are attempting to send may be too large to send by email.
• It will ask if you want to use Mail Drop to deliver the attachment using iCloud. You can ignore this and try sending the file as a regular attachment, or use Mail Drop.

If you use Mail Drop recipients will either receive a download link they can use to get the file, or they will see it appear as an ordinary attachment within the message they receive. They will be informed as to the size of the file you've asked them to download, so they can choose to pick it up at a more convenient moment (such as when on Wi-Fi). Files expire after 30-days. Here is a complete guide on How to receive Mail Drop on iOS10.

You can use Mail Drop through a Web browser

You can also use Mail Drop to send email using the iCloud Mail Web app in a Web browser. This is quite useful if you are traveling and need to use a borrowed computer to get online, as iCloud online works with most decent browsers and Windows as well as Macs.
You'll need to visit and use your Apple ID to login to iCloud (www.icloud.com) in the browser first.

• Open the Mail app and click the Compose button inside Mail in the browser, and complete your email in the usual way.
• To attach an item to your message just tap the Attach button at the top right (it looks like a paperclip).
• Select the files you wish to send and click Choose.
• Tip: To select multiple non-adjacent files use Command-click on a Mac or Control-Click on Windows. You can also drag-&-drop files onto the message composition window on Macs.
• If the attachment(s) become too large to send using your current connection, (usually when they hit 20MB or above), Mail on the Web will ask you if you want to use Mail Drop. You can choose not to do so if you wish.
• Tap 'Use Mail Drop' and the attachment will begin to upload. You must not quit the page before the upload is complete. Once the upload is complete you'll see your attachment listed just under the Subject line in the email composition window.
• You can click the X to the right of the file name to delete it or repeat the process to add more attachments to the email.

Once you have managed to place all the attachments you want to send into your message and the upload process is complete, you'll be able to Send your message.

Now you should be able to transfer almost any file to another person using email from any Mac, iOS device, or even a Windows PC, thanks to Mail Drop.

Atari released a series of 8 bit computers (400, 800, 1200XL, 600XL, 800XL, 130XE, 65XE, 800XE, and XEGS) and a video game console known as the Atari 5200 from 1979 to 1992

These emulators emulate the Atari 8 bit family: 400, 800, 1200XL, 600XL, 800XL, 130XE, XEGS and the Atari 5200. This can be one of the more tricky emulators to get set up as they require a multiplicity of BIOS files and configurations depending on what systems you want to utilise but it seems to run Atari 5200 games pretty well.

Atari800 is currently a port of version 4.1.0, whereas lr-Atari800 is based on version 3.1.0. Because of this, setup is substantially similar, with some differences. The lr-Atari800 core is currently the default in Retropie.

ROMS

Accepted File Extensions: .a52 .bas .bin .car .xex .atr .xfd .dcm .atr.gz .xfd.gz

Place your Atari 400,800, ROMS in

Place your Atari 5200 ROMS in

BIOS

Mac Os Versions

There are 5 main BIOS needed for the Atari800 emulator:

See Advanced Config below for other alternate BIOSes which may be required to run certain software.

Place these files in

Once you have your ROMS and your BIOS files where they belong there is one more step of configuration needed where you tell the emulator where to look for your BIOS files. It varies based on the emulator, so look below to those sections for instructions.

Atari 5200 setup

In both emulators, the atari.cfg file is shared between Atari computers and the 5200. In lr-atari800, the core options likewise apply to both by default. However, for either emulator, if you have a core options file in your atari5200 directory, it will let you have separate settings for just the 5200 system.

Make sure you have a file called /opt/retropie/configs/atari5200/retroarch-core-options.cfg with this in it:

See 'Advanced Config' for solutions to problems booting 5200 games.

Please be sure to read through the docs below specific to each emulator version.

If you are using lr-atari800 you will want to set the controller type to 'Atari Joystick' and not 'RetroPad' in order to get all the keys mapped to your controller.

Emulator: lr-atari800

BIOS setup

Make sure you have the appropriate system files in RetroArch's system directory:

Then, load a content file. The Atari800 core should boot to the 'Atari Computer - Memo Pad' screen.

The Atari800 core will generate a '.atari800.cfg' config file in RetroArch's home directory and will add the required BIOS files it detects in the system directory to the config file.

Now you can manually select what Atari system you want to emulate through the 'Atari System' core option.

Finally, you can load any content files compatible with the system chosen through RetroArch's Load Content menu.

Alternatively, you can manually configure how the Atari800 will look for and handle BIOS files. While the Atari800 core is running, you can press F1 to get into the internal emulator menu. From there, You can go to the 'Emulator Configuration' section and then the System ROM Settings section to configure BIOS options. Bitfight: defense mac os. (Press Enter to confirm menu selections and press Escape to go back a menu).

Then press Escape a few times to go back to the 'Emulator Configuration' section and select Save Configuration File or alternatively change Save configuration file on exit from no to yes.

Then you can exit the emulator by pressing F9 and then try the game again or press Shift+F5 to reboot the game.

To set per-ROM Core Options, see Setting Core Options per-ROM.

Options

The Atari800 core has the following Core Options (see Setting Core Options). Settings with (Restart) means that core has to be closed for the new setting to be applied on next launch.

Controllers

Device types

The Atari800 core supports the following device type(s) in the controls menu, bolded device types are the default for the specified user(s):

User 1 - 2 device types

Controller tables

Joypad and analog device type table

If your controller is set to 'Atari Joystick' you will have the following mappings:

Keyboard device type table

See the section below for Atari800 keyboard controls, they are the same.

Known issues with lr-atari800

• NTSC filters do not work.
• 'New artifacts' do not render properly.
• Sliders for adjusting anything in the menus do not work correctly. Adjust these values by editing the config file.
• The SHIFT and CTRL keys do not work when typing, including when used from the virtual keyboard.
• Analog stick implementation for several Atari 5200 games is broken (Gorf, Missile Command, etc)

Note that any option settable in the RGUI will override the atari.cfg config file. Numerous options are only settable via the emulator menu.

Emulator: Atari800

BIOS setup

Navigate to either the Atari 800 or Atari 5200 system on emulationstation and choose a game. Either a screen will open up with a bunch of different cartridge options, or the game will crash. If you are playing a 5200 game then choose a 5200 cartridge option (Option #5 seems to work). You will then get a warning telling you that it needs a real Atari OS. (You need to legally own the 5200 hardware to have the BIOS). Then press F1 to open the menu and navigate down to 'Emulator Configuration' and press enter. Then navigate down to System ROM Settings and then press Enter (Quick hint: use the escape button to go back up a step in the GUI).

The easiest option is to just select 'Find ROM images in a directory' then navigate into the BIOS directory and press the space bar. If you have the right files and file names it should automatically place the BIOS files where they belong.

Alternatively you can configure them manually:

For 400/800:

For XL/XE:

For 5200:

For BASIC:

Then press escape a few times to go back to the 'Emulator Settings' and select Save Configuration File or alternatively change Save configuration file on exit from no to yes.

Then you can exit the emulator by pressing F9 and then try the game again or press shift+F5 to reboot the game.

If you can't seem to make it work that way, once you have tried to start a game and use F9 to exit the emulator a file called .atari800.cfg will be created in the /home/pi directory.

This is a verified working .atari800.cfg file

Drol Mac Os X

Controls

Quick Tips for Gameplay:

Troubleshooting

• If it freezes up on you on the cartridge screen then try rebooting your pi and try again. If it keeps failing you either have the wrong BIOS, your ROM isn't compatible, or you chose the wrong cartridge option.

Typical file formats

• .atr: an Atari disk image. Typically needs BASIC disabled. You load these from the gamelist, basically you boot the Atari with this in the drive.
• .dcm and .xfd are two other disk formats that lr-atari800 can read.
• .cas is an Atari cassette image. It's not listed on the Retropie page, but I'd be surprised if the emu couldn't load it. You can actually boot from a cassette.
• .rom and .bin are typically cartridges. Note that you can have a disk in the drive AND a cart in the cartridge slot at the same time. Carts always take precedence over disks. Also note that these formats are not the same as a .car file because they usually don't need header information.
• .a52 and .car are typically Atari 5200 cartridges, but you can find .car Atari 8 bit carts as well. These usually have header information, because there are over a dozen cart formats with added banks of memory, etc. See '5200' above for how to convert a cart to a bin and back in order to put the right header info on the cart.
• .bin and .xex are executables. You may also see .com. These are just binary executables, but not entire disk images. You can load these from the gamelist, or from the Disk Operating System, which on an Atari was a menu. Boot a disk with DOS on it (and there were like a dozen different DOSes you could use, often with incompatible disk formats) and you can use the menu to launch the executable. Game compilation disk images often have collections of these.
• .bas is a BASIC file. You cannot run these directly from the gamelist. You have to load them from disk while in BASIC (use LOAD 'D:FILENAME.EXT' and once it loads, type RUN.) Many games consist of a disk image with DOS (a directory listing of the disk contents will show DOS.SYS and DUP.SYS), a BASIC program, and a little executable named AUTORUN.SYS. This basically makes the disk bootable and runs the .BAS program directly. These end up being .atr images that require BASIC.

Note that the emulators let you fully manipulate disks! You can accidentally reformat your rom, and it will look the same from the outside. Many games require you to have a blank disk to save player state on. Don't mess up and save your player file over the game! Similarly, quite a lot of 'player disks' and 'scenario disks' and the like out there actually have people's saved games on them.

Advanced Config

BASIC and games

The Atari 400 and 800 systems ran a Memo Pad when you turned the machine on without loading a program or having a cartridge inserted. The BASIC cart was packed into the box. All the XL and XE models came with BASIC built into the machine. This meant that when booting the system, you had to tell the machine 'the BASIC cart isn't actually plugged in' whenever you wanted to load anything else. This was accomplished by holding down the Option key while booting. If you didn't load anything, you ended up instead in a self-test mode. Lastly, carts always disabled BASIC automatically.

Most games you will find for the Atari are machine language, and require that BASIC be disabled. See this thread

Booting Atari 5200 cartridges

Often when you boot an Atari 5200 game, it gets stuck at the Atari logo, or just crashes, or it asks you to specify a cart type. There's a bunch of kinds, and they all have to do with how much memory was embedded in the cart, and how many chips that memory was using, and what order the banks were in, etc. There is supposed to be a header on the cart that tells the machine how to interpret it, but lots of cart dumps don't have the header.

The emulator, though, has the facility to create carts, and this can add the missing header back in. Then you'll never see this menu again. Do this by going to the emulator menu (F1), Cartridge Management, Extract ROM from cartridge, save it, then Create Cartridge from ROM image, and select the file you just created. You will be asked which cart type to use. A handy list gathered by forum members is here: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/16556/cartridge-type-code-list-for-atari-5200-games. Be sure to test after making your choice; if it doesn't work, just try another one. Go through the entire 5200 library (it's not that big!) and you'll never get the choose cart menu again. Be sure to have a backup of all your 5200 roms, of course.

Missile Command and Gorf on the 5200

Don't expect Missile Command, Gorf, and other games that use analog absolute position to work correctly with your controller. Both emulators mimic this analog controls using a mouse, and this may not work well in either core.

Artifacting

High resolution graphics mode on Atari 8-bits was a one-color, two luminance mode. You could have one color for the background, and the same color at a different brightness for the pixels drawn. However, similar to the Apple II, the Atari supported what is called artifacting. This is a literal 'artifact,' a graphical glitch, caused by the way the chroma circuits in the original hardware worked.

If artifacting is turned off, many games which ought to be in color will appear in black and white. Among them are games like Lode Runner, Drol, A.E., most pinball games, and many others.

On the other hand, because of the way artifacting is implemented in the emulators, turning it on for all games will make text harder to read and many graphics not look crisp in games that no hi-res mode.

See this thread for an exhaustive discussion of artifacting with many screenshot examples.

Atari 800

To get the best artifacting results, press F1 for the emulator menu. Go to Display Settings. Select 'Full NTSC filter' for the artifacting. Under NTSC filter settings, set Burst Mode at one of -1, -0.5, 0.5, or 1 (or adjust to taste).

lr-atari800

NTSC filters do not work in this emulator. Retroarch will default to 'Old artifacts.' No other choices will render correctly, but you can use the F1 menu to switch between four different versions of artifacts which will give different colors. As a rule of thumb, you'll find that most games are either mode 1 or GTIA.

Automatic handling of BASIC games and artifacting

If you are using lr-atari800, there is a runcommand-onstart script that will

• Automatically launch PAL games in PAL.
• Automatically enable BASIC for games that require it.
• Let you choose from the four NTSC artifacting modes at the runcommand menu by setting an emulator for a specific rom.

See the script in this thread.

Other BIOSes and BASIC versions

While the five BIOS files listed above will deal with 99% of the software you likely want to run, both versions of the emulator support many alternate versions, some of which permit loading software that would otherwise crash or run in graphically distorted form.

The following table gives the other BIOS checksums accepted by the emulators. These can be manually set in

which is also symlinked from

by adding the full path to the relevant line. Alternatively, you can use the emulator's internal menu. In lr-atari800, this can be reached via F1 or the R button; in Atari800 you can reach it via F1. Navigate to Emulator Configuration > System ROM Settings. Place all the BIOS files in

and select Find ROM Images in a Directory. The emulator will find all BIOS files that match these, regardless of their filename. (Info drawn from Peter Dell's Atari ROM Checker website).

In addition, custom BIOSes can also be loaded; in fact, the default recommendation for an OS B BIOS is actually a hacked version from the PCXFormer emulator.

There are three different versions of BASIC. Some BASIC software requires OS A and Rev. A BASIC; this is usually noted in the filename as [OSa]. The vast majority of the time, you will want Rev. C.

There are two possible BIOSes for the Atari 5200.

In Atari800, you can select which of these to boot into using command line switches.

In lr-atari800, Retroarch has these choices within the Core OptionSystem: 400/800 (OS B), 800XL (64K), 130XE (128K) and 5200. See Setting Core Options.

Note that since core options override the emulator's own config file, but Retroarch doesn't cover all the sub-options, you can set different versions of BASIC or different BIOSes for the supported systems via the emulator menu.